Has Science Caught Up to Scalp Care Marketing?

Dear Valerie: Scalp care seems to have become its own category, with dedicated brands and products rather than simply being incorporated into everyday shampoos and conditioners. Is that separation really driven by the science and unique formulation needs of the scalp, or has the industry elevated scalp care into a standalone category because it’s a better marketing story?

—SCALP OR SCAM

Dear Scalp, 

If you’re a regular reader of this column, you may suspect my answer leans toward the industry taking advantage of scalp care as a standalone category. After all, skincare is completely saturated, the scalp gets treated like it is an extension of the face, and—dare I say it—the movement into scalp care gave birth to the abomination known as skinification of the scalp. And it’s not just skincare brands crossing over; hair care brands see the scalp as the next natural territory too. If I had a nickel for every time someone proclaimed, “Healthy follicle, healthy hair!” I’d be writing this from an over-the-water bungalow in the Maldives.

Perhaps you don’t read this column regularly, but you’ve seen my talk on formulating for scalp. Your prediction on my outlook may be no different. In that presentation, given to various SCC chapters and educational events around the country, I review scalp science and formulation trends before rhetorically asking the audience if brands are getting scalp care right.

In 2015, I decided scalp care was the next product category worth chasing for a salon professional brand. Salon professionals have seen more scalps than any other profession, so I thought their perspective would be the most useful lens on scalp health. Boy, was I surprised when one told me: “everyone thinks they have a scalp problem, but very few people do.”

A few years later I developed an AI-based scalp analysis program that used specialized imaging attached to an ordinary iPhone. After reviewing more than 7,000 scalp images for abnormalities, I had to admit that particular salon professional was right. Very few people actually have scalp issues. However, everyone has scalp concerns, and brands cater to that.

Over the last decade, my perspective has slightly changed. I believe the science is finally catching up to the marketing. Brands are paying closer attention to scalp biology and developing products that attempt to address legitimate consumer concerns. I still think most people don’t have the scalp problems they believe they do, but I also know the scalp is a truly unique environment, not simply facial skin hidden beneath hair as people like to think.

Over the last decade, we have learned more than ever about the scalp barrier, its microbiome, and the role of follicle biology in hair growth and graying. Even more exciting is seeing our industry generate meaningful research into scalp health and the ways ingredients can genuinely support it. That’s evolution I can get behind!

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Valerie George

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Valerie George is a cosmetic chemist, science communicator, educator, leader, and avid proponent of transparency in the beauty industry. She works on the latest research in hair color and hair care at her company, Simply Formulas, and is the co-host of The Beauty Brains podcast. You can find her on Instagram at @cosmetic_chemist or showcasing her favorite ingredients to small brands and home formulators at simply-ingredients.com